Japan - day 11 - tears, traffic, Tokyo!

Today I cried.

My original plan was to cycle from Hakone down to Odawara and get the train in to Tokyo. I decided instead to cycle, for two reasons:

1. I had missed out on the 140 km ride around Fuji, and
2. I couldn't face messing around with the bike and the luggage on the train again. It's actually easier to ride for 6 hours than to deal with that.

I chose a route with minimal elevation, i.e. as few hills as possible, so it should've been pretty easy going. Strava, the website I used to map the route, doesn't tell you the number of metres I'd have to descend, however...

Pretty much straight from the hotel and for approx 12 km it was downhill, and very, very steep. Oh, my poor hands!! The whole way down I had to sit on both brakes so as not to get out of control - and with the bike being so heavy, there was a lot of squeezing to be done. I could manage about 5 mins, then I had to have a 5 min break. At one point I even had to get off and walk because my hands were not useable any more and were just shaking. It was so painful, I just had to cry to release the pain. I'm not sure exactly how long it took me to get down to 'normal' roads, but when I eventually did, it was like heaven. Or at least it would have been if it wasn't so bloody cold! So, all in all, not a great morning.

The turning point was the pissing dog. The weather had brightened up and it was time to shed a layer, so I stopped at a 7/11 for a comfort break, and to fuel up with another rice ball. As I was on my way in to attend to my lavatorial needs, a lady was tying her little fluffy dog up outside. When I got back out, it was still there and had done an appropriately tiny poop. When the lady came back out of the shop, she put her bag down next to the dog and proceeded to clean up the minuscule mess. The tiny pooch took this as a great opportunity to cock his leg and piss into the lady's bag. I nearly spat Speed Athlete all over my poor bike.

Once your hands have stopped cramping and you've witnessed a tiny dog take a piss into its owner's bag, things must be looking up.

As I was getting closer to Tokyo, of course the traffic started getting heavier, though it wasn't slowing me down too much, mainly because I wasn't going very fast anyway. There were no real hills to speak of until Tokyo, so it was just a case of taking in the sights.

Cycling through Yokohama was cool, it was quite grand and, had I had more time, I could've gone on a roller coaster and a Ferris wheel. Here's a pic from Yokohama. Doesn't really do it justice.

Past Yokohama and in to Tokyo.

Traffic kept building but still it was no worse than what I've cycled in within the UK. In fact, even in Tokyo drivers are more polite than in the quietest of places in the UK. In the two weeks that I've spent here, not once have I felt intimidated by other road users, and I can count on exactly three fingers the number of times a vehicle has passed a little too close for comfort. In the UK, that would be per ride.

I must mention the Global Network of Head Nodders at this point, a.k.a. the Global Road Cycling Club. Once you're in the club, all other road cyclists who are also members must nod as they pass you. Any other sign for 'hello' is also acceptable, e.g. wave, thumb up, etc. To enter into the club, you simply begin head nodding. But beware, you must not nod if you don't think the other person is a member! So here's a quick guide to identifying a member of the GNHN:

• They ride a road bike. Not a commuter bike, or a mountain bike. It's got to have curly handlebars.
• They wear a helmet.
• They wear cycling gear specifically designed for road cycling.
• And here's the most important thing: they've clocked you and they look like they're a prime candidate for a Head Nod.

I have been using this guide for the last two weeks and have nodded to many a fellow member. Please be aware though, that if you're riding a road racing bike, such as mine, with panniers and handlebar bags, such as mine, other members may get a little confused.

Upon arrival in Tokyo, I found my hotel, got the next person out to take the below photo, and swiftly threw Serena on the floor. Or shall I say, she threw herself on the floor. Maybe it was fatigue, but it's the first time she's done that, all holiday. Poor girl, bet she'll be keen to see the back of those panniers!

A quick shower and change later and I'm walking around the busy streets of Chiyoda.

A few turns later and I appear to have stumbled on the Sports Shop Road, with shop after shop of sports and outdoor gear (mainly snowboarding gear). I suddenly start grinning... One shop had aisle after aisle of running shoes, some weirder than others.

I also came across a bike shop that I may have to return to tomorrow...

Dinner was average, then I went back to the hotel to do some laundry. While waiting for the washing machine to finish its cycle, I decided to try out the massage chairs that were just next door. They're pretty efficient, but they do make you look like a fool while in them. At least that's what I assume the American couple were thinking when they walked in and we had a quick chat.

Plenty to do tomorrow and planning on an evening out, so tucking in early. Night!

 

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