Friday 4 April 2014

Japan - day 4 - winds, sakura, shouting at customers, and a finely-tuned machine

First thing's first. Today I peed at 186 mph (that's 300 kph for you metrics out there). I also walked at 186 mph, ate sushi at 186 mph, and wrote part of this blog at 186mph. Do you know why? Because that's how I roll here in Japan. It must be also be mentioned, that the pieces of sushi were shaped like the front (and back) of this Nozomi bullet train. Don't you agree?

And here's a picture of me smiling at 186 mph. Pretty fast smile, wouldn't you say?

Apologies for looking knackered, but that's what happens when you get wind-blasted, as was the case today. A wise, wise decision to not head out on the bike today. One which I do not regret.

My morning did not start as I had planned, with a breakfast and a hot spring bath, but it did start with breakfast. Fish, specifically. With fruit and tofu almond butter, and waffles with strawberries, whipped cream and chocolate sauce for afters. Fish for breakfast is not something I will seek out in future, but it was worth a try. Maybe I should've kept some in case I come across someone who says Japan is expensive.

After brekkie I headed out in search (not really, I knew exactly where it was) of Himeji Castle. You may have seen it featured in the James Bond movie "You Only Live Twice". If not, it's not difficult to find it on Wikipedia. But no need, here it is in all its glory!


Oh.

Now, you might be laughing right now and feeling sorry for me, who went all that way and stayed longer in Himeji just for that. But stop! Of course I knew this was the case, they don't call me Kajsa 'Research' Tylen for nothing! My research had led me to believe that, not only was Himeji Castle incredible, even under wraps, it was also a prime sakura spot (that's blossom in Japanese) and this must surely be true.

This place was wonderful! I arrived early, and the crowds had yet to arrive so it was a peaceful journey to the first part of the route round the grounds. I entered the west bailey (shoes off) and wandered up the stairs. I say wandered, but it was more of a shuffle due to the ridiculously large slippers they had made me wear. As you can imagine in Japan, I wasn't alone with this issue. The bailey consisted of a bunch of rooms that went to tell you about the history of the place. Each room had a view onto the blossom below and, as I was taking some pictures of them, a man (estimated age around 60) asks me "may I talk with you, prease?". From his stern expression I was convinced I was in for a bollocking. Instead, he proceeded to give me the history of Himeji Castle in his wonderfully sweet Engrish, of which I understood about 25%. I found out all about Princess Sen, which he later nicknamed me, and I found out about the renovation work taking place (from the video they showed). He followed me around until the end of the bailey, he laughed at all my jokes (gold stars for him!), and kept me informed and entertained. I didn't want to leave, but we had to part and so we took each other's picture (he said he wanted to remember Princess Sen) and waved goodbye. He said he would look forward to seeing me on March 27th next year, when the castle is finally unwrapped. Sounds like a date to me!

After that, the rest of the tour just wasn't the same so I took pictures and headed out to the Koko-en Japanese Gardens, or the Koko-en Gardens as they're known here. By this point the wind had really started picking up but the skies were blue and the sun was shining.

I just want to point out that, whenever I'm with my bike, as I was today, I leave it locked up with all my luggage still on the back for anyone to steal (I take my valuables). But it is always just as I left it. Sometimes I wish they would steal the luggage, it would make riding the bike so much easier...

Anyway... The Koko-en Gardens; what a treat! I even sampled a traditional Japanese tea ceremony:

Of course, sitting like that for that long made my sun burn burn, and sent my legs to sleep. The Japanese don't appear to have either of these problems.

The sweet they served at the ceremony did little to stem my increased hunger, and I was rapidly heading for a Hulk moment. I decided to head to the train station to catch the Nozomi to Kyoto. I could eat on the train (refer to earlier in the blog). Now, this is where the finely-tuned machine comes in. That'll be me I'm talking about. Pay attention.

  • Open near-side pannier.
  • Extract bike bag, unzip, open and unfold onto the floor.
  • Remove rack from bike. This is somewhat tricky when fully loaded with bags.
  • Remove handlebar bag and ipad holder from bike. Attach the two together.
  • Turn bike upside down onto the bike bag.
  • Remove both wheels.
  • Wrap derailleur in bubble wrap and tape.
  • Place both wheels against bike.
  • Zip up bike bag.
  • Attach shoulder strap to bike rack.
  • Ready to get on the train, bike rack on one shoulder, bike on the other.

Like a finely-tuned machine. And for some reason, carrying it all was a hell of a lot easier today than when I arrived. Must be all that protein I'm eating!

Once off the train, reverse the manoeuvre and I'm ready to head to my Kyoto hotel. Which, by the way, is rather posh. And my suitcase had arrived, woohoo! All my luggage was taken to my room on a trolley by a lovely woman in a kimono, who seemed nearly offended by me trying to help.

I settled in (emptied the contents of my bags onto the spare bed), showered and headed out for the nighttime illumination of Nijo Castle, just across the street. Despite the rain, the cold, and the rumbling belly, it was worth it.

For you food fiends out there, my evening meal consisted of gyoza as well as pork and rice. Not a patch on previous meals, but in this restaurant they also did what I had noticed previously - shouted at customers. They shout when you arrive and they shout when you leave. All the staff shout, there's no way you could sneak out, I don't even reckon a Ninja could, but I'd pay to see him try! Apparently they shout "irrashai mase", which means "welcome!". Love it. Thinking about it, did Hattori Hanso do that in Kill Bill?

Enough now, my fingers have developed verbal diarrhoea! I will continue to enjoy my first ever Sake in Japan in the hotel lounge, whilst watching the waterfall outside the window. Night. X

 

 

2 comments:

  1. Glad the suns shining and the blossoms are out, you look to be having a wonderful time . As birthday buddies I could not resist commenting on your yesterday blog to say have an awesome birthday today when its my birthday tomorrow ha !

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  2. Enjoying the blog, brings back happy memories.

    ReplyDelete