Japan - day 12 - monkeys, coffee, and Shabu-Shabu

I awoke at the late hour of 6am, tried desperately to get a few more minutes sleep with limited success, and eventually got up around 7am. I meandered up the road to Akihabara, the manga and anime heart of Tokyo, stopping en route for coffee and French toast. Akiba, as it's also called apparently, is probably more impressive at night or if you like that kind of thing, but I snapped some pics and carried on up to Ueno Park, a very nice area with lots of places allocated for hanami. The blossom has all but gone now though, but the Japanese are making the most of every last petal and, as lunch approached, the hanami spots were going fast.

I reserved my spot by placing my bottom on a wall under a blossom tree and ate my gyozas and panda-inspired... whatever it was. Delicious and sweet.

Wandering around the park, I took in the sights and briefly watched a show with the star being a performing monkey, but couldn't bear it (pardon the animal pun) for very long.

After some time people watching and wondering what else they could make into the shape of a panda (and realising they probably had everything covered), I made my way back to the hotel to grab another layer before my next expedition. I nipped in to the Tokyo Dome Hotel in order to get a ticket for the bus to the airport for Monday morning, and to ensure that my bike could come too. After a lengthy discussion with the ticket guy, and an even lengthier conversation between him and someone on the phone, he tells me to come early so he can measure the bike. "And if it's too big?", I ask. Then I should have enough time to get the train, apparently, which involves three trains, two changes, more money, and considerably more stress. Thanks for that.

Next stop on the agenda - Shibuya. The home of the world famous Shibuya Crossing. Not as interesting or entertaining as I was hoping, but there was a guy in a onesie giving out free hugs. He looked a bit sweaty though, so I gave it a miss.

One type of Japanese cuisine that I'd not tried yet was Shabu-Shabu, a sort of Japanese fondue, so I went to Nabezo, which my Lonely Planet guidebook recommended, at 5.30pm. "Reservation only." Of course, as per usual. Next reservation - 8.45pm. I put my name down as the hunger rage had been subdued by a strawberry scone and a 'coffee & cream frappucino' from Starbucks, as I watched the cattle crossing.

So I had a few hours to kill, and was in shopping heaven. If you're into lunch boxes. No, not that type, you filthy animals! The bento type! An entire department just for eating your lunch. May have to splash out... but my luggage is already overweight...

Some half hour of browsing later, I'm standing outside a shoe shop (which, btw, does not have tiny shoes for tiny feet as may be expected here in Japan) checking my map when someone says hello to me. I look up and see a north-African looking bloke with an orange down jacket on. "Remember me?", he says. "No", I reply honestly. Apparently we met by the crossing. Must've been in another universe. We chat for a while, he tells me he's Moroccan and that he's been living in Japan for five years. Really nice guy, and I had some time to spare, so we went for a coffee (third one today!) and continued chatting. I now know pretty much everything about the Japanese visa system, Moroccan banks, and how much Moroccan tour guides earn. I now also have another emergency contact, which is always handy.

Already being out of my comfort zone by going for a coffee with a total stranger, I'm was a little relieved to have a Shabu-Shabu reservation waiting for me, and my stomach had started making noises again.

Shabu-Shabu involves throwing meat and veggies into two different 'soups' and letting them cook, before dipping them in egg or sauce and chomping away. I chose Shabu-Shabu and Sukiyaki soups because they were the only ones I'd read about it the guidebook. The waiter spotted I was a Shabu-Shabu virgin and kindly showed me the ropes. You can eat as much as you like within 90 mins.

Now, I need to mention a few things about Tokyo. The population of Tokyo is 13 million, that's about 4 million more than London. That's 11 million more than any other city that I've been to during my trip. And I believe half of the population of Tokyo was in Shibuya tonight. At least, that's how it felt. Tokyo is so different from anywhere else I've been in Japan, just as I'm sure most large cities are, but I can certainly say I've not warmed to it yet.

What I also discovered, upon emerging from my fondue-fest, is that Tokyo has a lot of piss heads. As I made my way back to Shibuya station, I walked straight past the Karaoke bar I had flagged on my map. Part of me now wishes I'd gone in, but the other part of me is glad that I didn't bother. Having abstained from alcohol all evening (part of my personal safety initiative) I decided to have a night cap in the hotel bar instead. Sorry, closed at 10.30pm. Meh.

 

 

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